Resolutely modern from its shiny black facade and chilli-patterned glass'n'crome bar, Cafe Naz is sufficiently confident to allow itself the odd slash of kitsch such as the splendid, smoking fountain by the door. After all, this is Banlatown's buzzing Bangladeshi brasserie, and like the estimable le taj a few doors down, a beacon for pan Asian culinary modernity and amid the variable phantasmagoria that is Spitafields brick lane.

Naz vegetable include an excellent Begun masala - chopped aborigine sautéed with green pepper and tomato, and a deliciously sloppy Bangladeshi style saag bhajee, pureed spinach, tastefully herbed and seeded. Add perfect pilou rice and a nice fluffy garlic naan - if you're planning to sleep alone. The best wine from the aspirational, mainly French list (which includes four champagnes and a sparkling pink Aussie, brut tache from the talarni winery, a snip at £14.95) is a cru classe province rose. Or bottle out with kingfishers and cobras.

Naz is big, bright and packs 'em into its dark blue leatherette banquettes day and night. The smart black uniformed staff are eager to please their mixed clientele - which encompasses everyone from Asian birthday parties and spitalfields locals to city honchos out for a dine on the wild side.